I had sent my lower and bolt back last year or so to get some work done and it adressed the issues i was having ammo related, last couple of time at the range i had a few rounds of tula 54r get stuck in the chamber and too ALOT of force to gt out, looking at those casing the primers were blown but but fired, surplus ammo runs fine, so my question is what could the issue be?
So, to make sure I understand you, the firing pin is puncturing primers??
As far as the ammo being stuck, I must advise against Tula ammo in all calibers.? My personal experience with it has been, the 223 stuff got stuck in my wife's rifle, the 308 got stuck in my AR10 after 50 rounds or so, and the 45acp got stuck in my Springfield XD twice.? So the track record of their steel cased poly/lacquer coated rounds kinda stinks.? I'm sure that alot of folks will take issue with my statements on Tula, but this has just been my luck with the ammo at large.
If the answer to the primer question is "yes", please upload a photo of the bolt face so I can better help with this.
Bryan, here is a pic of my bolt face, i agree on tula steel cased, it used to blow out primers and fire them? before i sent it back and Rick adressed that issue, last time i took it out a few weeks ago it fired steel cased and my normal surplus Bulgy copper colored? ammo just fine but puts a deep dimple in the primers ( surplus).., if possible can you please reach out to me via cell if possible?
I own several SMGs and MGs. Surplus ammo primers are harder than most modern day ammo from what I can tell. My DP-28 works fine with surplus, so far. My semi-Maxim 1910, semi-Vickers and MG42 have had difficulties with surplus. I have concluded that full auto originals were built such the bolt/firing pin hit the primers much harder than their semi-build equivalents in many cases. I fixed my MG42 by simply stretching the recoil spring. I am testing the Vicker's shortly with some modern .303. Old surplus ammo primers probably are another factor. Would be interested in the experience of others. I am now having problems with my full auto UZI; primers are punctured and jam with all types of 9MM. I still have Russian, Hungarian, Czech, 9.62x54R, I bought 10 years ago, around 9k rounds.
While we've had some issues with split cases on the surplus 7.62x54r, it's been one of the better calibers as far as reliability on the surplus stuff.
The older .303 British was tested in a full auto Bren some years back and while it worked most of the time, the most common issue with it was hang fires.? Some were as long as 3 minutes!? Scary.
I'm honestly surprised by the Maxim and Vickers having issues, only because I think, in most cases, the semi-autos use the original firing pin spring.? Hope my 1910 Maxim doesn't have too much trouble once built.
We've had a customer blow the mag out of his FG42-2 and split the wooden stock shooting Turkish 8mm Mauser meant for a 30 something inch barrel.? Standard 8mm is like 2400 - 2600fps and this crap was cooking at 3100 - 3300fps!? Not ideal.
When we used to build the PPS43 pistols and KP44's, we had issues? at times with old surplus and hard primers.The DP's have always been good about setting off nearly everything you can find.
The Bren's and ZB semi-auto we used to build set off almost everything except some old Egyptian 8mm and some unknown nationality 303 that had the spaghetti looking cordite powder.
Like I said in a previous post, I personally haven't had great luck with Tula or the Wolf of any caliber.? The lacquer and the poly coat both stick in my guns once they are hot.
On the UZI, does it jam/punch primers on surplus also?
